Three decades ago, pub food and pizza were likely to have been the most diverse meals dished up at Ballarat’s restaurants. Now gyoza, paella and croquembouche are on the menu. KARA IRVING asks food-loving baby boomers and generations X, Y and Z for the ABCs of Ballarat’s evolving food scene as the city gears up for Good Food Ballarat in November.
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AGED, blossoming and competent.
These were some of the words that came to mind when residents were asked to describe the ABCs of Ballarat’s culinary culture.
Accessible, borderline and contemporary was another response.
Generations of Ballarat foodies, spanning from baby boomers to Generation Z, said the regional city has achieved much in the food stakes but had a long way to go.
Gone are the days when pizza and pub meals were the only dine-out options.
Spanish, Indian, Japanese, Mexican, vegetarian, vegan and, more recently, organic burgers are now on the menu in Ballarat.
Eclectic Tastes barista Meg Campana said there was always scope to raise the standard.
“Ballarat’s food scene has stepped up but there is room for improvement,” Ms Campana said.
“We’ve become more cultured and now have more options.
“I think we are on our way to becoming more like Melbourne.”
Ms Campana is part of the Generation Y pack – those born between 1981 and 1994 – and recalls a change in Ballarat’s food scene in the late 1990s.
“My family is Italian and there was always a lot of food, whether we went out or ate at home,” she said.
“When we went out, there was Eureka Pizza and Frangalis Cafe, which was a little Greek restaurant opposite Eureka.”
Ms Campana, 22, said there were more cafes and restaurants in Ballarat today than 20 years ago.
“(But) we still need a kick up the bum,” she said.
“A lot of people are scared of change and accepting new and modern things.”
When Ms Campana visits Melbourne, she eats the same cuisines offered in Ballarat.
“I eat gourmet pizza and Vietnamese Pho,” she said.
“My friend and I have found this great place that has kebabs 10 times the size of those sold in Ballarat but half the price.”
Baby boomer Don Colbert does not believe Ballarat is becoming a mini-Melbourne.
Mr Colbert, 53, said Ballarat would form its own identity in time.
“We are still a regional area,” he said. “We have a different culture, different population and we don’t always have massive events.
“Ballarat has evolved from steak houses and I like a good country meal but I do enjoy the variety we have now.”
Mr Colbert said Ballarat residents were still happy to embrace the fast food culture.
“I still go to Red Rooster and bring home the family pack with peas, gravy, chips and chicken,” he said. “That’s probably my main takeaway these days.”
He said Sturt Street McDonald’s was still popular, especially with its McCafe expansion.
“They have two cappuccino machines and six staff behind them,” he said. “That was only a sideline and now that’s become a main part of the business.”
Mr Colbert grew up in Nhill and moved to Ballarat when he was 10.
His first food memories consisted of little corner stores and counter meals.
“There were a lot of hotels back then, Ballarat had about 52 pubs,” he said.
“We had Golden City hotel, which changed to GeeCees.
“They were one of the first places to offer an American all-you-can-eat option for $8.95.”
Home-cooked meals were big in the Colbert family, with not many people eating out.
It seems not much has changed in 30 years.
Generation Z’s Maddy Cosgriff, 17, and Harry Cousens, 18, also said they did not eat out much.
The Cosgriff household considers takeaway a “sometimes food”.
The same can be said for the Cousens’ family.
“We generally go out for dinner for special occasions, like birthdays,” Mr Cousens said.
“We went to La Porchetta, The Grapes Hotel and visited Lygon Street (in Melbourne) for a special treat.”
The couple agreed Ballarat had a similar variety of cuisines to Melbourne.
Maddy said Ballarat needed more centralised food strips.
Generation X member Sara Kittelty agreed.
“Eateries in walking distance create momentum. Sturt Street is so long,” she said.
“You need to walk around and see what you feel like.
“Main Road is becoming a bit of a hub, you feel like you are in a big city.”
The Beaufort chef and caterer has vivid early memories of eating out in Ballarat.
“Everything shut mid-afternoon on a Saturday and there was nothing to do on a Sunday,” she said.
This lead to experimentation in the Kittelty family kitchen.
“Mum cooked crazy curries with bananas, sultanas and desiccated coconut – that was fancy for us,” she said. “People didn’t go out as much.
“For us, going out to a Chinese restaurant in the 1980s was extraordinarily exciting.
“It probably wasn’t even authentic Chinese, it was westernised and the only thing rural Victoria was game enough to eat,” she said.
Ms Kittelty said parts of Melbourne’s eating style had trickled into Ballarat.
“About 12 years ago Ballarat was still pretty rural,” she said.
“In the last five years we have seen a change in the food culture in Ballarat and in another five years it will come to Beaufort.”
Ms Kittelty said there should be a focus on improving the quality of existing Ballarat restaurants.
“I think there is a niche market for pubs doing things really well,” she said.
“And there are more of these places opening, like The Mallow.”
Ms Kittelty said The Mallow Hotel on Skipton Street had developed a speciality for quality food and boutique beer.
“It is less about the food and wine and more about learning,” she said.
“Anybody can drink a glass of red wine but not everyone can pick up the flavour and smells. It is about learning something.”
• Good Food Ballarat starts on November 1 – see your guide to events in Wednesday’s edition of The Courier
kara.irving@fairfaxmedia.com.au