REINFORCING his status as the region's top winemaker is an honour Ian Watson hopes will help create extra taste for small producers across the Grampians as people make their way back to wineries.
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Tomboy Hill has been elevated to hold five red stars and be highlighted in red in the prestigious Halliday Wine Companion which, under a revamp purge, carried stricter marking.
Coupled with further recognition in the Western Victorian Wine Challenge, including top prize for chardonnay Tomboy Hill, these accolades mean a lot for Mr Watson in a tumultuous time for the industry.
The long-time Black Hill-based maker said this has been one of the toughest years for small wine labels, worse than last year without Job Keeper or extra government boosts to keep going.
Long lockdowns had been telling with demand via his typical supply channels drying up.
At the same time, steady winter and spring rains have been good for growing, despite last month's earlier than usual frosts taking a toll on some crops about the region.
"Business picked up last week with the imminent lockdown lifting announcement but before that it's been really tough when a lot of our supply is for cafes and restaurants," Mr Watson said.
"Hopefully we're getting out of it."
Mr Watson said there was growing recognition for the quality of fruit people were able to grow in Ballarat conditions that previously had been considered too cold. He has pleasingly noted more vineyards cropping up about town.
Grampians Winemakers president Damien Sheehan, who is Mount Langi Ghiran's viticulturalist, said the state's easing restrictions would be crucial to boost cellar door survival.
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Mr Sheehan said the industry was unsure exactly what to expect after almost two years moving in and out of lockdowns.
There have been efforts from some wineries in the region to adapt takeaway offerings, such as Summerfield Winery in Moonambel's diversification into wood fired pizzas.
And there has been a strong industry push via wine clubs and direct sales.
Mr Sheehan said getting people back via cellar doors and hospitality was a whole different level.
"Domestically everyone's talked about how much online has picked up at an astronomical rate, but it's really off such as small base. This doesn't replace business through hospitality," Mr Sheehan said.
"We've been doing okay with regional visitation but even with regional cellar doors open and open able to come a lot of people have not been willing to make plans much more than a day trip.
"There has been concerns you never know when we might be locked down again and there has been an impact from that.
"Confidence is an important thing."
Mr Sheehan hoped confidence to travel, explore and to dine out would rise as restrictions continued to ease.
He said opening back up to tourism from Melbourne should also be a good boost.
"Spring is the best time of the year in this region," Mr Sheehan said. "Everyone is really party-ready. We've had a few more accommodation venues pop up and two more cellar doors."
On the export front, new Wine Australia data showed wine exports fell 24 per cent overall.
There was a 77 per cent drop in wine exports to China, due to tariffs, but there continues to be an appetite for Australian wine in the United Kingdom and United States amid the pandemic.
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