Coronavirus in Ballarat: Region's wineries 'wild ride' under new restrictions

A lack of tourist trade from Melbourne, at least for the next six weeks, will end what has been a revival of sorts for vineyards - and particularly their cellar doors - since statewide pandemic restrictions were first enforced.

Wine Victoria chairman Damien Sheehan, a viticulturist at Mount Langi Ghiran, said Melbourne traffic about the Grampians had been steadily building since restrictions were first eased for the Queen's Birthday long weekend. The past couple of weekend the cellar door had felt like a long weekend crowd.

But it was hard to predict what this weekend would be like, with Melburnians in lockdown but regional Victorians free to move about, with caution.

"Business was relatively quiet at first but picked up and picked up. This has taken the wind out of our sails. Everyone had been keen to bounce back," Mr Sheehan said. "We're a bit flattened by that decision."

Many small wineries in the Grampians closed up during initial stage three lockdowns, instead choosing to focus on their harvest.

Those with prominent cellar doors adapted to a takeaway model, without tastings. Mark Summerfield, who owns Summerfield Winery in Moonambel, stepped up his pizza trade for locals up to 45 kilometres away.

Mr Sheehan said there had been a lot of confusion from customers about what was open and what was not, but most pleasingly people would ring up to buy direct.

Owen Latta from Eastern Peake in Coghills Creek said it had been a "wild ride" for both the industry and his business.

"One minute you think you're going to go broke, trying to keep staff on and looking after your growers, and the next thing your world changes," Mr Latta said.

The 2018 Australian Young Winemaker of the Year said the biggest hit had been from his usual sales to top-end restaurants and bars about Australia that were unable to trade or had limited trade.

Mr Latta said the support from consumers had been overwhelming, with many purchasing directly or calling past the cellar door wanting to support local.

Similarly, Michael Unwin said the past week had been incredibly busy, particularly with people calling past the new Lucas cellar door from Melbourne on the school holidays and wanting to stock up before restrictions.

"People have been just loving the fact they have somewhere to come and something to do. There have also been a lot looking at 'what can I do locally to get involved'," Mr Unwin said. "...It's only six weeks and they will all be back again."

Mr Unwin said while restrictions hurt, he felt these would hurt restaurants more, especially with limits remaining on 20 people for dining in.

John Harris, from Mitchell Harris, echoed these sentiments and said he could not help but be a bit nervous for what the next six weeks might mean.

"It's been important we stay in touch and engaged with local customers. I have had tears many times from orders coming through from people I grew up with and others just wanting to support small business," Mr Harris said.

"It's been heartening the Ballarat hospitality industry has been checking in with each other and making sure you're okay.

"...What's good for your neighbour and competitor is good for all of us. I just encourage people to support small business and that supports a lot of local small farmers too."

Meanwhile, Mr Sheehan said wine trade with China was "so far, so good" in a gradual recovery from lockdowns, despite tense international trade relations. But he said it was vital to have export details spot-on.

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