Ballarat's Tomboy Hill keeps focus amid tumultuous period for wine industry

Mr Watson said his Black Hill-based label has felt the effects of a tumultuous period in an Australian wine industry rocked by pandemic impacts, particularly via restrictions on hospitality, and widespread fall-outs from unsettled trade with China.

But the focus has remained consistent at Tomboy Hill to focus on quality from small vineyards in a method that has captured high accolades for more than 30 years. This includes a long-running five-star rating in the Halliday Wine Companion.

While Tomboy Hill was too small to export to China, Mr Watson said it was particularly sweet to claim top awards in a field with Chinese-owned wineries at the annual Daylesford Wine Show late last year.

Tomboy Hill won best chardonnay for 2018 Jude's Picking, named after his youngest grandson, and best pinot noir for 2019 The Tomboy in one of the only wine shows to proceed in the past year.

Tomboy Hill's chardonnay and pinot noir are typically produced from single vineyards to emphasise a difference while the Rebellion label is a blend.

Mr Watson said one of his winemakers realised the quality through Ballarat's best fruit and soon bought his own land for a vineyard in the region.

"People aren't always aware there is a wine industry in Ballarat. When we do make wine, we make it well," Mr Watson said. "...Quality wine is always going to sell, but obviously sales have dropped right off."

Lockdowns and tight restrictions hit cellar doors hard across the Grampians region with some wineries pivoting their focus, such as Summerfield in Moonambel which fired up a woodfire pizza venture for takeaway in the region.

Mr Watson said he was buffered from this, in a sense, but the closure and restricted trade to cafes and restaurants that stock his wine had hurt business.

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Winemakers across the Grampians region made a concerted plea early in the pandemic for people to buy local and buy direct to best support vineyards.

Mr Watson said this is where businesses like Campana's and Daylesford IGA played a key role in keeping Tomboy Hill viable.

Tomboy Hill also still uses a mail order system, like used in many wineries across France. Mr Watson said he found people liked the somewhat old fashioned process, often made with personal comments.

Gradually trade was turning.

"It's coming along now, we're starting to get reasonable orders," Mr Watson said. "It's still tough for the hospitality industry and this is why it is important people continue to support local."

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